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In traveling southward, along the slope of the
mountain, on again approaching the region of grass
it was singular to observe the line of
demarcation.
The sand, moved by the winds,was gradually encroaching
upon the vegetation, the depth of the edge being
about 6 inches. The contrast between the deep red
of the one and the vivid green of the other was
very striking, and the line was as straight,
regular, and clearly drawn, with fertility on one
side and barrenness on the other, as any of a
similar nature seen by the writer in Egypt.
The walking upon the sand, although tiresome, was
easy as compared with that on the hummock grass,
over which our route now lay. In our journeyings
theretofore, although there was no regular paths
and of course no roads, we were fortunate enough
occasionally to strike a sheep or cattle trail,
which afforded a welcome relief, however brief, to
our jaded feet, There was nothing of the sort now
- no avoiding of rough places, no choice of spots
to plant a foot - and as we moved grimly onward,
blundering at every step, the distance around Cape
Anaataavanui seemed interminable. Thoroughly
fatigued we reached the precipice, which
terminated the plateau over which we had been
struggling, and looking to the westward saw the
welcome flags, still a mile distant, waving over
our camp. The descent of the precipice at the
point reached being precarious, its edge was
skirted until a more favorable place was found
down which to scramble to the plain below. Here
we presently struck a trail, which soon opened
into a wagon road, whence a footpath led to the
camp, which the writer (the party having been
scattered since noon) reached at 4.30 in the
afternoon.
The situation of the camp, which was
named "Baird" in honor of the secretary of the
Smithsonian Institution , was a delightful one,
being located on the south side of the little bay
of Hanga Nui, at the base of a bluff which partly
sheltered it from the strong southeast trades, as
well as the hot afternoon sun. Rana Roraka, from
the crater and slopes of which all the monoliths
on the island had been quarried, lay immediately
to the left. Pua-ko-taki, over whose summit and
around whose base we had toiled, loomed in front
of us. Lying in the opening of our cave , we
could gaze upon the great platform, Tongarika,
with its fifteen prostrate stone images, the
largest and most imposing on the island. At our
feet, surging back and forth among the everlasting
rocks as the swell rolled in from the open ocean,
lay the sparkling waters of the Hanga Nui Bay.
The cave, called "Ana Havea" by the natives, ran
back into the bluff
a distance of 50 feet or more and laterally about 30.
The entrance was spacious, and it was roomy, dry,
and well ventilated, the trade wind,
deflected by the bluff, sweeping nearly across its face.
It was an ancient cavern, had been inhabited by
the image builders, and was still occupied at
times by the natives, as also by Messrs. Salmon
and Brander when in this part of the island
engaged in rounding up their herds of cattle or
sheep. The floor was strewn with dry litter, bull
rushes and
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