704
natives built many of these huts, the cairns for
the dead, and other buildings, of these lava
blocks, loosely piled up, and Messrs. Salmon and
Brander apply them to good use in constructing
their extensive corrals and fences, with the
added advantage of thus clearing the soil for
planting, wherever desirable.
A coarse hummock grass and a variety of finer
quality grow profusely over nearly the entire
island, sprouting vigorously among the lava
fragments, and affording abundant pasturage for
the herds of cattle, horses, and sheep, the former
numbering 600 and the latter 18,000 at the time of
our visit, and both multiplying rapidly.
On the northeastern end of the island, and on the
slopes of Mount Pua-ko-taki, the surface is
covered with fine, red, volcanic sand and dust,
which is kept in constant motion by the winds, and
is barren of vegetation of any kind.
At the time
of our visit, December, which is during their dry
or summer season, extending from October to April,
the periods of the southeast trades, there were no
running streams on the island, nor, with the
exception of the valley at the base of Rana Kao,
were there any evidences of the former existence
of such visible. Fresh water away from the
habitations was exceedingly scarce and difficult
to obtain, although showers of rain at night were
not infrequent.
The alleged springs or wells, including Puna
Pua,
the "Unfailing Spring," so highly spoken of by
former visitors, were at long distances apart,
were merely shallow excavations among the bowlders
into which the surface water percolated, and were
covered to protect them from the animals. The
water contained in them was rarely of more than a
few bucketsful in quantity, and with a single
exception, at Camp Whitney, of bad quality. That
contained in the lakes inside the two craters, the
accumulations of the rainy seasons, and surface
drainage also, was fully as bad, and impregnated
both with vegetable and animal matter, the former
from the dense growth on the surface, the latter
from the herds of cattle which came to the lakes
to drink.
It may be mentioned in this place that the
natives, from long habit, no doubt, have become
accustomed to drink but sparingly. We were
surprised, during our expedition around the
island, to notice how rarely they resorted to the
canteen, with which all were provided, and they,
no doubt, were equally amazed at our constant
demand for water, made necessary to replace the
loss from perspiration, induced by violent
exercise and the sun's heat. They were always
careful to locate our camp near, and anxious to
keep us well supplied with, as good water as was
to be had, and when we broke camp in the morning
the "springs" in the vicinity were usually
drained dry.
It was at first a mystery to us whence the animals
obtained their supplies, but as to the cattle,
they never wandered far away from the craters, in
whose lakes they could, at all seasons, quench
their thirst. In so far as the sheep were
concerned, whose needs in this respect are
704